Bits
and
Pieces
Bits and Pieces
Pruning: What’s in a name, coppicing, pollarding or pleaching?
Without necessarily being able to name them, many farmers in our drought stricken areas would already be following these practices, pruning lower branches of trees to feed hungry stock. In gardening terms however, there is a difference between these types of pruning. Bushfires also ‘prune’ growth in a similar way and this stimulates new growth, once conditions improve.
Coppicing is not just giving a light trim but pruning the tree or shrub right down to near ground level which then just leaves a stump. This is best done in early spring as it will then stimulates a mass of fast growing new shoots which develop from this stump. Most broadleaved trees will coppice. More vigorous varieties include ash, lime, hazel, oak, willows, buddleja, and iochroma. Conifers, in the main, will not grow back. Coppicing was mainly used in the UK and Europe and that is where the name, a derivative of copse, originates. Of course, most of this cut timber was used for building or as firewood, and the young shoots eaten by livestock.
Pollarding is a method of pruning which allowed harvesting of firewood without harming the tree. Farmers may pollard to keep new growth out of reach of grazing animals. This involves making the pruning cut 1.5 to 2m up the trunk. This is where the new shoots will emerge. If there are three or four short branches coming from the central trunk, these branches will get pruned each time. According to Wikipedia, the ancient Roman, Propertius, spoke about pollarding in the first century BC. Pollarding can be used to restrict a tree’s size so that it grows only as tall and wide as the growth of its new shoots. Some suitable trees for pollarding include mulberry, eucalyptus, paulownia, some stone fruit trees and crepe myrtle. Eucalyptus trees grow quickly but can become unmanageable if left unpruned. This type of pruning can reduce the amount of leaf litter and improve the overall appearance of the tree but avoid cutting them during excessively humid conditions as this could lead to fungal infections.
Pleaching is another pruning style. This term comes from the French word ‘plecher’ to braid and creates an interwoven hedge that appears to be on stilts. Pleaching produces the desired tree shape and size, but may take a while to achieve the desired ‘look’. If planting in rows, the exposed trunks of the pleached trees can be underplanted with a lower hedge or other plantings. Regular pruning is required for this style and is time consuming. Pleaching can be used with magnolias, bamboo, ficus, Syzygium austral (lillypilly), some flowering gums and grevilleas, to mention a few. Pleaching may be used for privacy, blocking an unwanted view, forming a backdrop for a garden or for windbreaks.
Pruning: What’s in a name, coppicing, pollarding or pleaching?
READ MORE
Without necessarily being able to name them, many farmers in our drought stricken areas would already be following these practices, pruning lower branches of trees to feed hungry stock. In gardening terms however, there is a difference between these types of pruning. Bushfires also ‘prune’ growth in a similar way and this stimulates new growth, once conditions improve.
Coppicing is not just giving a light trim but pruning the tree or shrub right down to near ground level which then just leaves a stump. This is best done in early spring as it will then stimulates a mass of fast growing new shoots which develop from this stump. Most broadleaved trees will coppice. More vigorous varieties include ash, lime, hazel, oak, willows, buddleja, and iochroma. Conifers, in the main, will not grow back. Coppicing was mainly used in the UK and Europe and that is where the name, a derivative of copse, originates. Of course, most of this cut timber was used for building or as firewood, and the young shoots eaten by livestock.
Pollarding is a method of pruning which allowed harvesting of firewood without harming the tree. Farmers may pollard to keep new growth out of reach of grazing animals. This involves making the pruning cut 1.5 to 2m up the trunk. This is where the new shoots will emerge. If there are three or four short branches coming from the central trunk, these branches will get pruned each time. According to Wikipedia, the ancient Roman, Propertius, spoke about pollarding in the first century BC. Pollarding can be used to restrict a tree’s size so that it grows only as tall and wide as the growth of its new shoots. Some suitable trees for pollarding include mulberry, eucalyptus, paulownia, some stone fruit trees and crepe myrtle. Eucalyptus trees grow quickly but can become unmanageable if left unpruned. This type of pruning can reduce the amount of leaf litter and improve the overall appearance of the tree but avoid cutting them during excessively humid conditions as this could lead to fungal infections.
Pleaching is another pruning style. This term comes from the French word ‘plecher’ to braid and creates an interwoven hedge that appears to be on stilts. Pleaching produces the desired tree shape and size, but may take a while to achieve the desired ‘look’. If planting in rows, the exposed trunks of the pleached trees can be underplanted with a lower hedge or other plantings. Regular pruning is required for this style and is time consuming. Pleaching can be used with magnolias, bamboo, ficus, Syzygium austral (lillypilly), some flowering gums and grevilleas, to mention a few. Pleaching may be used for privacy, blocking an unwanted view, forming a backdrop for a garden or for windbreaks.
Handy hints
When pruning cut and drop the prunings (if not too large) then scatter organic fertiliser before mulching.
When planting soak plant in a mixture of seaweed. Place organic fertiliser in base of the hole before planting. Water in with liquid seaweed.
When pruning salvias, particularly in the summer months, prune the bottom half of the plant first and let the fresh growth appear before pruning the remainder of the plant. Severe pruning with some salvias can kill them. The majority of salvias flower for much of the year, however the winter flowering varieties need to be pruned in January and if left any later can become very leggy and likely to break in the wind. Salvias are very hardy and disease resistant.
Brunnings coir peat potting mix is an excellent medium for using in permanent pots as it retains the moisture well.
Treatment for controlling the mildew on zucchini: Mix 1 tbsp molasses into 1 cup milk and add to a small spray with 1 L water. Spray affected plants (and any you want to protect) daily, in the morning.
Striking cuttings in winter: Try putting them into a polystyrene broccoli box with lid, in a warm position.
When planting vegetable seedlings, put a cut plumbing PVC pipe (about 10cm high) around each seedling to protect from birds, cut worms etc.
Soak punnets of seedlings in a weak solution of seaweed Seasol before planting out.
Geranium cuttings often rot when planted immediately into the garden. To avoid this and to save digging a hole just poke pieces under the mulch with their tops poking out and they will take root and grow well.
Avoid choosing late flowering camellias as they often will not open buds before warm/hot spring days.
Crumple comfrey leaves and place in bottom of pots when re-potting plants. The leaves are a useful addition to compost or used as mulch, as they contain silica, nitrogen, magnesium, calcium, potassium and iron.
Hose your camellia plant leaves regularly to reduce build-up of red spider mites. Pay attention to the undersides of the leaves as well.
Grow ‘chop and drop’ plants such as arrowroot, bananas, gingers and cassava. They keep the ground cool and worms love them.
Hippeastrums like to be crowded in pots in full sun and they require perfect drainage. If they didn’t bloom well one year it could be that the bulbs did not receive enough sun the previous summer. They also need a rest period of at least eight weeks in winter, so cut down on watering plants in the garden, or place pots on their side to stop them getting wet during this period.
Mealy bugs can mark plants where bad infestations have occurred, but a good hard squirt from the hose may dislodge them. If pests persist, try using Natrasoap which is a natural substance and should control mealy bugs, scale and some insect pests. Use only in the late afternoon when the sun is setting so you avoid sunburn on the plant from using this product.
Handy hints
When pruning cut and drop the prunings (if not too large) then scatter organic fertiliser before mulching.
READ MORE
When planting soak plant in a mixture of seaweed. Place organic fertiliser in base of the hole before planting. Water in with liquid seaweed.
When pruning salvias, particularly in the summer months, prune the bottom half of the plant first and let the fresh growth appear before pruning the remainder of the plant. Severe pruning with some salvias can kill them. The majority of salvias flower for much of the year, however the winter flowering varieties need to be pruned in January and if left any later can become very leggy and likely to break in the wind. Salvias are very hardy and disease resistant.
Brunnings coir peat potting mix is an excellent medium for using in permanent pots as it retains the moisture well.
Treatment for controlling the mildew on zucchini: Mix 1 tbsp molasses into 1 cup milk and add to a small spray with 1 L water. Spray affected plants (and any you want to protect) daily, in the morning.
Striking cuttings in winter: Try putting them into a polystyrene broccoli box with lid, in a warm position.
When planting vegetable seedlings, put a cut plumbing PVC pipe (about 10cm high) around each seedling to protect from birds, cut worms etc.
Soak punnets of seedlings in a weak solution of seaweed Seasol before planting out.
Geranium cuttings often rot when planted immediately into the garden. To avoid this and to save digging a hole just poke pieces under the mulch with their tops poking out and they will take root and grow well.
Avoid choosing late flowering camellias as they often will not open buds before warm/hot spring days.
Crumple comfrey leaves and place in bottom of pots when re-potting plants. The leaves are a useful addition to compost or used as mulch, as they contain silica, nitrogen, magnesium, calcium, potassium and iron.
Hose your camellia plant leaves regularly to reduce build-up of red spider mites. Pay attention to the undersides of the leaves as well.
Grow ‘chop and drop’ plants such as arrowroot, bananas, gingers and cassava. They keep the ground cool and worms love them.
Hippeastrums like to be crowded in pots in full sun and they require perfect drainage. If they didn’t bloom well one year it could be that the bulbs did not receive enough sun the previous summer. They also need a rest period of at least eight weeks in winter, so cut down on watering plants in the garden, or place pots on their side to stop them getting wet during this period.
Mealy bugs can mark plants where bad infestations have occurred, but a good hard squirt from the hose may dislodge them. If pests persist, try using Natrasoap which is a natural substance and should control mealy bugs, scale and some insect pests. Use only in the late afternoon when the sun is setting so you avoid sunburn on the plant from using this product.